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Safe Disposal of Medications

As part of a massive spring cleaning effort, we managed to clean out cabinets recently that hadn’t been touched in several years. Included in those cabinets were bottles of medications from the cats who came before us, which led to the very important question: How do you safely dispose of medications you have around the house?

We know that there are a lot of ways that you shouldn’t dispose of things.

Pierre_in_trash_basket

Flushing your unused medications down the toilet or drain is a bad idea. The US Geological Survey has already found levels of drugs such as antibiotics, hormones, and contraceptives in 80% of the rivers and streams tested in part of a nationwide study. Additional studies have shown that fish and other wildlife can be adversely affected by medications, even when they are expired.

Instead of flushing medications,  check to see if there are drug take-back events in your area one of the following ways:

  • Call your city or county government’s household trash and recycling service to ask whether a drug take-back program is available in your community. Some counties hold periodic household hazardous waste collection days, where over-the-counter and prescription drugs are accepted at a set location.
    Ask your pharmacist whether he or she knows of any medicine disposal programs in your area.
  • Find a local, independent pharmacy in your area who participates in drug disposal through disposemymeds.com.
  • Check the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration’s web site for National Prescription Drug Take-Back Event information.
  • Ask your veterinarian. They may be willing to include unused medications originally purchased through them in shipments to their medical waste company.

If there aren’t any drug take-back events in your area, you can purchase special postage-paid packages from your local pharmacy that send medications back to a medical waste company. Some medications are ineligible for this program so read the fine print before you purchase.

The same guidelines can be used for disposal of human medications, though your veterinarian is unlikely to be willing to take back unused human medication. Keeping our groundwater safe is everybody’s responsibility!

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March 13, 2014 Filed Under: Safety Tagged With: medication disposal, medications, Safety 13 Comments

Safety First: Mardi Gras Toys

Newton: Check out the special Mardi Gras toys the head peep brought us!

Newton_beads01a_sm

Newton: Whoa, what the….

Newton_beads02_sm

Newton: No one told me that I was expected to wear these.

Newton_beads03_sm

Newton: This is so undignified. I’m going to hide back here where no one can see me.

Newton_beads04_sm

Unfamiliar objects, used as toys, can cause entanglement. Always supervise to make sure that nothing unexpected happens!

Ashton: I just knew those things were dangerous.

Pierre: This is more embarrassing than dangerous. Mancats don’t wear beads.

Pierre_beads_ashton_sm

Pierre: You were laughing at me, weren’t you? Stop that. I just want to have some fun with these beads.

Pierre_beads01_sm

Pierre: They make an enticing sound when they slide across the floor, and they feel great in my claws.

Pierre_beads02_sm

Pierre: You’re not getting away this time!

Pierre_beads03_sm

Pierre: * Arrrrgh!* *Gack!*

Pierre_beads04_sm

The game was over when Pierre managed to wedge the beads between his teeth and couldn’t get them out. He flung his head back and forth until someone could catch the beads and gently pull them free from his teeth. He probably would have worked them free eventually, but he might have injured himself before he realized he could get free. Supervised play with unfamiliar toys is always the safest route.

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March 6, 2014 Filed Under: Safety Tagged With: Ashton, Mardi Gras, Newton, Pierre, Safety 22 Comments

Safety First: Buckle Up!

Ashton: I’m starting this post with a disclaimer. I didn’t have to get into a carrier for this at any time. Photos of me are from my last trip to the vet, and empty carriers were used for examples. That’s a very GOOD thing!

Ashton in Cat Carrier

When you get in the car to drive, you buckle your seat belt, don’t you? (If you don’t, just say yes and start buckling up. We’d like you to be okay in case you are in an accident.) Your cat should buckle up, too.

Of course, you can’t put a little seat belt on your kitty, but you can make sure that the cat carrier is secure so that it doesn’t shift or fall in case of an accident or even a sudden stop. It’s not hard to do. In Ashton’s photo above, you can see that her carrier is buckled into the front seat of the car. Here’s the rear view of her carrier buckled in.

Cat Carrier Buckled In Car

Notice how the seat belt runs up over the center seam of the carrier. Most carriers don’t have a slot to secure the seat belt, but putting it up over the center seam of the carrier and then tightening it prevents the seat belt from sliding down and slipping off entirely. If you click to biggify the photo, you’ll also see Ashton looking out of the top of the carrier.

A lot of us prefer to keep a cat carrier where we can see it, and where the cats can see us. That usually means the front seat. If you have a cat carrier in the front seat and your car is a model year 1993 or newer, make sure your air bags for the passenger seat turn off. This works differently for different cars, but usually operates by weight. In many cars, a light displays to indicate the airbags are disabled.

Passenger Airbag Light

If you aren’t sure about the airbags, or if you have trouble buckling the carrier in your front seat because of its size, move it to the back seat instead.

Sometimes, even in the back seat, it’s difficult to secure a carrier with the car’s seat belts. This is especially true when you are transporting multiple carriers and there isn’t enough room between them to latch the seat belts. In this case, you can use bungee cords to help. You can get a container of assorted length of bungee cords at your local home improvement store.

All cars built since 2002 are required to have LATCH anchors for child car seats. You should be able to use these to help secure the cat carriers using your bungee cords. They may look something like this. (Minus the need to run the vacuum cleaner in the car. We are sure your car is much cleaner than the catmobile!)

Child_seat_anchor

Latch one end of the bungee cord into the anchor.

Bungee_Hooked_To_Child_seat_Anchor

While the car seat straps are usually designed to go up and over your car’s seat back, you can often find a way to feed the bungee cord around the side of the seat. Feed the other end of the bungee cord through the side of your car seat or wherever it fits to get it from the anchor and onto the front side of the car seat.

 

This gives you something much like a seat belt, but much more flexible, and with a hook at the end.

Bungee_through_seat_edge02

With one on each side, you can latch them to each other, or hook them to objects inside the car to keep items secure in your seat.

Two_bungees_back_seat

Including, of course, cat carriers. This elastic is actually a little bit too loose for securing this single carrier, but it works for the purpose of demonstration. You want it to be nice and taut so the cat carrier doesn’t shift in case you have to brake suddenly.

One_carrier_back_seat

If you use just two bungee cords, they will probably meet and hook right in the middle. If you use more to get a combination of lengths that gets the correct tightness, the hooks might fall in awkward locations. This is the view between the front seats of the single carrier.

hooked_bungees

You can fit multiple carriers, too. This is the secret to how three carriers are secured side by side for transports in the back seat of our relatively small car.

Two_carriers_back_seat

No matter how many of you have to travel at once, you can all travel safely with a little bit of ingenuity. Remember: always buckle up for safety!

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January 30, 2014 Filed Under: Safety Tagged With: Ashton, Safety, seat belts 17 Comments

Keeping Cats Safe from Bifold Doors

At least in this part of the country, lots of houses are built with bifold doors in them, especially closet and pantry doors. Opinions about whether they are attractive or not aside, there is a more serious issue: they don’t latch, and cats can and do learn to open them.

Little paws fit right underneath the bifold doors, and a little tug will pull them ajar. If you store anything inside that your cats shouldn’t get into, this can make the kitties unsafe. It became a real issue in our house several years ago when our late cat, Louie, both diabetic and hyperthyroid, was so hungry that he was breaking into any food source he could find and indiscriminately eating it. Everything edible had to be locked up, which meant that the human food pantry had to be secured.

Newton will be happy to demonstrate that the pantry door isn’t safe from a determined cat who knows there are treats inside…

Newton and the Pantry door

One way to latch a bifold door is to use commercially-available bifold door latches intended for childproofing a house. We found that these worked well for the standard wooden bifold doors, but our house has metal bifold doors for both the kitchen pantry and bedroom closet doors.

We could have replaced the doors, but instead, we came up with another solution. We barred the doors.The process was actually pretty simple, and didn’t take much in the way of needing handy-ness. It took a sturdy 1 1/2″ wooden dowel, cut to the width of the doorway, and a set of wooden curtain rod brackets per doorway. We painted them with some leftover trim paint to match the room trim, then used the included screws to attach them on either side of the pantry door.

Each set of brackets has a round bracket for one end.
Pantry Circle Bracket

This is the end that you will put the dowel into first to secure the door.

Pantry circle bracket with dowel

The other bracket is U-shaped.

Pantry U bracket

The dowel slides down into this bracket to secure the door.

Pantry U bracket with dowel

The result is a tidy barrier that sits so close to the door itself that the cats can’t pull it open.

Pantry Door Barred 02

When the dowel is removed from the brackets, they are unobtrusive, and the door operates as normal.

Open Pantry Door - Cat Danger

We used slightly different sized brackets for the kitchen pantry and for the bedroom closets. The bedroom closets were a challenge because the door jambs are narrower than the one in the kitchen. After some research, we realized that we were going to be unable to get a bracket that was quite narrow enough to allow the door to close and also not to protrrude into the room. We overcame this problem by trimming the sides of each bracket so that the decorative edge was no longer round, narrowing it to fit on the door jamb.

Bedroom U Bracket Trimmed 02

This project was done all with the materials available at the nearest home improvement store, so the wider array of brackets available online would have prevented us from needing to take this extra step.

This inexpensive, easy project has given us a lot of peace of mind. The cats can’t get into the food pantry and steal things they aren’t supposed to have, and they can’t get into the spare room closet where the extra dry food bins are stored, either.

Newton doesn’t approve of either of these things, but it’s for his own good.

Newton and the Pantry door 02

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January 14, 2014 Filed Under: Safety Tagged With: Newton, Safety 23 Comments

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